Ourense, wonderful Galicia!

Located in northwestern Spain, this region is rich in culture, nature, and traditions. Famous for the Camino de Santiago, it is an important center of Christian pilgrimage with the majestic Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Its spectacular coastline, known as the Galician Rías, offers fjord-like landscapes, wild beaches, and picturesque fishing villages. Galician cuisine is also renowned, particularly for its seafood, Galician-style octopus (pulpo a la gallega), and wines. With a strong Celtic identity, Galicia is distinguished by its traditional music, often played on the bagpipes (gaita), and its own language, Galician.

In October, for a week, to enjoy a pleasant period that is not too crowded with tourists.

We were delighted to be able to do a home exchange in a superb apartment in the center of Ourense with People Like Us Homeexchange. We flew with EasyJet from Nantes to Porto and exchanged cars: Rocio and Domingo's car was waiting for us at the airport, and ours was waiting for them in Nantes!

Why Galicia? Because we love Spain, and above all because of Rocio and Domingo!

Monasterio San Pedro de Rocas

👉🏼 Heading to Esgos, just a half-hour drive from Ourense. Our morning plan was to follow the Camiño Real toward the Monasterio San Pedro de Rocas.

We later learned that we had taken the hiking trail in the toughest direction! And indeed, it starts with a steep climb. The trail is really enjoyable and varied, and the moss-covered stone walls make the scenery incredibly photogenic.

In a remote village called Quinta do Monte, which seemed sparsely inhabited, we asked a lady about the strange buildings we saw everywhere. Communication wasn’t easy—three words in Spanish, three words in French, and lots of hand gestures. She called her husband, who supposedly spoke and understood French, but poor Pépé (as his wife called him) struggled to move with his walker, accompanied by his sister… or sister-in-law? Cousin? She spoke a bit of French.

Anyway, we learned that these buildings, called Horreos, were used to store crops—elevated granaries, usually made of stone or wood, designed to keep grains and other agricultural products safe from moisture and rodents. The village itself is striking, almost in ruins, yet some people still seem to live there, even though we didn’t see any access roads.

Après un pique nique avec vue, nous avons continué notre chemin en passant par la fontaine de San Bieto pour arriver au Monastère de San Pedro de Rocas.

It’s one of the oldest and most fascinating religious sites in the region, with origins likely dating back to the 6th century. The ruins are stunning, but the areas open to visitors were closed and wouldn’t open until too late.

The hike ended an hour later. Having walked enough for the day, we drove toward the Sil Canyon, heading to Cristosende, after a quick photo stop at the Miradoiro do Monte do Outeiro viewpoint.

We then took a sunny break on the terrace of a bar-restaurant in Cristosende, which was very pleasant and offered a stunning view!

On the way back to Ourense, we stopped to admire the stunning terraced vineyards.

👉🏼 Mosteiro Santo Estevão de Ribas de Sil 

Located in the Sil Valley, in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra, it is one of the most remarkable monastic complexes in the region. Founded in the 6th century, it was a major spiritual and cultural center until its abandonment in 1875.

Since its restoration, it’s now a hotel (Parador) where we would love to stay! It’s simply magnificent.

Upon arrival, you’re immediately struck by the grandeur of the buildings, a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles. There are three absolutely stunning cloisters: the Bishops’ Cloister, with its ancient tombs; the Knights’ Cloister; and the Vivero Cloister.

The site and its surroundings are absolutely breathtaking, and after our stroll around the monastery, we couldn’t resist settling down at the hotel café in the Knights’ Cloister. Sunlight floods through the large windows, highlighting the spaciousness and serene beauty of the cloister. Sitting there with a coffee or tea in hand, it felt like time slowed down—an utterly peaceful moment to soak in the history and atmosphere.

There’s also a beautiful Romanesque church with a Baroque façade.

A truly wonderful visit that makes you want to stay.

A legendary spot in Galicia, famous for its majestic cathedral—the final stop of the iconic Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. This city perfectly blends history, art, and spirituality. We wandered through its cobbled streets, lively squares, and historic buildings. Venturing a little beyond the bustling center, we discovered quieter streets and a charming restaurant housed in an old building, complete with its own olive tree.

The historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, exudes a unique atmosphere where pilgrims and travelers cross paths. It’s both impressive and moving to see the joy (and relief) on the faces of pilgrims arriving in a steady stream at the cathedral’s grand square. You can also spot them by their tired, sore feet and the various bandages on their legs. The square itself is full of life, vibrant, and festive.

Visiting the cathedral, even in the middle of the crowd, is truly impressive. And as for the scallop shell—it’s everywhere! On pastries, souvenirs, decorations… everywhere you look!